Sunday was an open day on our itinerary and we opted to join the optional tour to Mostar, Bosnia. So glad we did! The trip north from Dubrovnik was beautifully scenic, again always following a body of water with islands all around; there are over a thousand islands along the Dalmatian Coastline.
It was a two hour drive to reach the inland city of Mostar, but the two hours grew as we were required to stop at several border checks. There is a small strip of the coastline belonging to Bosnia and divides Croatia, meaning we needed to exit Croatia, enter Bosnia, drive 20 miles north then exit Bosnia and again enter Croatia. That small stretch of land took over an hour as our passports were collected and stamped at each crossing. And we still weren't finished... once we turned inland we exited Croatia and entered the main territory of Bosnia Herzegovina. Confusing? Yes, time consuming? Definitely. And our guide was totally surprised that we were stopped and passports reviewed, he said he's never seen that in his ten years of guiding this region.
The good news is there will be a new bridge in the next few years that will bypass this 20 miles stretch. And, of course, we also had to redo all those stops on our return to Dubrovnik. Thank goodness, the passport check was simple without individually checking and stamping.
Now with about 6 new stamps in our passports we were on our way to Mostar with a short stop to see a tiny ancient walled town. The entrance to the city were these steps with houses and buildings along the sides. Paul stayed below at a cafe for a cappuccino while I climbed and visited the little shops set along the way. Just lovely. Again, all buildings were constructed of the local limestone blocks but in this region the rooftops were gray slate, not the red tiles we'd been seeing.
I never made it to the top of the hill, my 20 minutes had disappeared too quickly but I did bring two beautiful scarves back with me.
By 1:00 we had reached and walked into the old town of Mostar. This region was one of the most devastated during the war in the former Yugoslavia and there remains evidence of destroyed buildings still waiting reconstruction.
Today the small cobbled streets remain and shops welcome tourists while residents put the war behind them and move on as an independent country.
The views of the city and the river Neretva were beautiful with the Stari Most (literally "Old Bridge") a 16th century Ottoman bridge, connecting the two parts of the city..
Cafes and shops all along the street were busy but again, "off season" style of busy. No major crowds, just lots of room to explore and enjoy.
I loved this view looking west.
This is the old bridge which has an steep arch with steps helping you walk over it. The city of Mostar was named after the bridge keepers (mostari) who guarded the Old Bridge in medieval times.
The continuing walk down the other side of the bridge to ancient shops and restaurants.
The Turkish influence is strong in this area and this selection of Turkish coffee sets was amazing!
And lots of colorful walls along the shops
Another view looking back at the beautiful bridge where divers will dive from the top of the bridge to the river below. Even on our chilly gray day there were two divers offering to take the plunge if they could get the crowd to raise the $50. I don't think anyone wanted to see them in that freezing water, so the diving never happened. Each year a competition of divers from around the world happens in Mostar.
Steps leading up to our restaurant and fantastic local menu of skewered meatballs and fries.
I'm always drawn to the unusual and often intricate work of old doors, knowing that behind these iron doors is perhaps a lovely courtyard or a small shop kept hidden from view.
By 5:00 we were leaving the city and returning to Dubrovnik. A lovely afternoon with a long drive back.
It was a two hour drive to reach the inland city of Mostar, but the two hours grew as we were required to stop at several border checks. There is a small strip of the coastline belonging to Bosnia and divides Croatia, meaning we needed to exit Croatia, enter Bosnia, drive 20 miles north then exit Bosnia and again enter Croatia. That small stretch of land took over an hour as our passports were collected and stamped at each crossing. And we still weren't finished... once we turned inland we exited Croatia and entered the main territory of Bosnia Herzegovina. Confusing? Yes, time consuming? Definitely. And our guide was totally surprised that we were stopped and passports reviewed, he said he's never seen that in his ten years of guiding this region.
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