GORGEOUS OPATIJA & ISTRIAN PENINSULA Nov. 21-22, 2017

This beautiful morning began our longest travel day with a change in landscapes, weather and elevations, with an all day drive from Split to Opatija. As was our norm we left at the civilized time of 9am with our first rest stop at this lovely overlook along the Skradin River and the entrance to the Krka National Park of Croatia. Hard to see in this photo, but there is an ancient 2000 year old village of Scardona at the top of this inlet. Visiting the village wasn't on our itinerary, sadly.  Once again, a cappuccino to enjoy with the view then on across this beautiful bridge as we made our way from the coast.  

We next arrived in Zadar, the oldest continuously inhabited Croatian city, just around lunch time. Though we didn't sense its size it is also the fifth-largest city in the country and traces its origin to the 9th century. So amazing to be here in these beautiful ancient cities!

Not only is Zadar, old and large and lovely, it also is a destination just to hear the Sea Organ. Duka kept mentioning it as we were nearing the town but until we sat along the river's edge to hear the sounds I couldn't quite understand or picture it. The organ looks like just broad steps leading down to the river but there's some very clever engineering under the steps. The lower steps let the water and air flow in then that water and air is funneled into resonating chambers under the steps. So, the music is made according to the waves and tides, never sounding the same twice. It was amazing.

With an hour and a half for our "personal discoveries" as Duka called our time, we turned back towards the town, but not before I tripped over a very small step and fell flat onto gravel. Ouch! It happened so fast, but nothing badly hurt, just scrapes and gravely cuts to clean up. Later in our trip one of our younger travelers wasn't as lucky, with a bad fall on steps of our hotel that required 8 stitches. I think I fell because I had my eyes on this gorgeous mansion instead of my walking path.

So, with such a sunny day we sat at an outside cafe for coffee and croissant with the locals, then a little shopping before meeting back up and continuing our journey. It turned out that the winds along this part of the coast were too strong that day to cross a bridge farther north, so we turned to the inland route, definitely different! We climbed across the mountains with snow still lingering from a few days before. The temperature dropped and the winds sure kicked up!  

But still in time for a beautiful sunset once we returned to the coast for the last hour's drive.

Our two night stay was at the lovely Bristol Hotel in the seaside town of Opatija. Arriving in the dark (as sunset happens about 4:15 this time of year) we got settled, went for a walk down the street for delicious Italian dinner.  One thing I really liked about this tour is that we made most of our own dining choices rather than eating with the whole group each night. And,  as usually happened we ended up joining another couple that evening at the restaurant with others stopping by later to share a beer or glass of wine. Nice.

The next morning the skies were dark and cloudy and we were so glad we'd planned on seeing the surrounding area with a day trip to Pula on the southern tip of the Istrian Peninsula. There was a park right across the street from our hotel, so we were up early that morning to walk along the water and see a bit of the city before our day trip south;  the area was filled with sculptures in the park and along the waterfront walk.

Since the traffic was light, the driver  took the very scenic coast route with tons of hairpin turns and stunning views, about a two hour drive.

Once we arrived in the seafront city Pula, the biggest surprise for me was this incredible Roman Amphitheater. As we learned, this city has been occupied, destroyed and rebuilt numerous times; from the Romans, Venetians, Hungarians, French, Austrians, Yugoslavia and finally now as the independent Croatia. This 1st century amphitheater is among the six largest surviving Roman arenas in the world. There were even attempts during the WWII Italian regime to dismantle it and move it to mainland Italy. But turned out to be too costly and so it remains in place. Again as off season travelers, we were only a group fo 20 visiting that morning.

Tried for a panorama

Walking below the arena we saw these ancient water vessels and even an early Roman map of commerce routes.

I just couldn't get enough photos of this beautiful architecture.

Continuing on our city tour we entered the old town through the Arch of Sergii with a view to the right of various dwellings from different periods of occupation.

Of course, there was time in a cafe for a light lunch and these quips.

The Temple of Augustus

Then our trip continued up the west coast of the peninsula to another charming seaside city, Rovinj. As we left our bus I noticed this one nearby, not quite my maiden name of Fuhrman, but close enough.

and into the quiet town center for walks always enjoying the bright colorful buildings.

and historic city gates,

marinas,

plazas,

and hidden finds.

Though it was only three in the afternoon, the sun was low in the sky as we walked the city sea path.

Had to have an afternoon coffee/wine time, of course.

Then the narrow streets opened to views such as these. Perhaps a little Venetian influence here dating back centuries.

And...sunset photos at 4:30 with a relaxing drive back in the dark.

Our day ended with the most wonderful find for dinner, at the small off-the-main-street restaurant of Ruźmarin, for the BEST dinner ever!

Wow, what a day... and we still had two more ahead! There's no way we could ever see as much in such a brief time traveling on our own and yet not feel rushed or hurried. Thank you, Gate 1!